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Writer's pictureAngie Pitt

Zadie jumpsuit / Paper Theory Patterns




If you're that person who has never been able to wear ready-to-wear jumpsuits because you have an extra long body, consider yourself seen! I've always wanted a boilersuit but whenever I tried one on I felt like I couldn't sit down without causing myself gynaecological damage. And so I turned to the Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns in the hope that this - finally - might be the jumpsuit I could wear. The fabric is a navy chambray which has been in my stash for years, and works really well for this pattern.


Cutting


The recommendation is to cut this pattern on the flat (i.e. NOT with fabric folded in half) as this is a more economical use of fabric. Because I had 3m of chambray hanging around (and because I'm lazy) I did actually cut on the fold, and then sewed strips of bias binding together afterwards from the remnants. In the end there was hardly any waste, but you could definitely save fabric and money by cutting flat, just remember to reverse your pattern pieces so you don't end up with two right legs (see my previous Persephone pants debacle).



Fitting





The Zadie jumpsuit from Paper Theory Patterns is much hyped on Instagram. Could it live up to the hype? Although the instructions say it is meant to be worn loose, other sewers say it comes up big and to size down. So I made a toile first from an old bedsheet, such is my long-body paranoia. Based on the finished garment measurements I made a size 12 on the top, graded out to a 14 at the waist and bottom half, so actually sized down one size. I did decide to lengthen the front and back bodice pieces by 1" for the final version just to make it extra comfortable as I like my crotch on the baggier side (so to speak), but if you have a standard or short rise you may find the crotch a bit low. I didn't change the leg length, and also went for the sleeve version but think it would have been equally nice without.



Sewing


This is actually a pretty simple make. The lack of fastenings (zips, buttonholes etc) not only makes it a less technical sew, the cross-over front also makes it easier to fit. The sleeves go in flat so there is no easing in, and there is no fly fastening on the trousers. I'd say this would be a great pattern for a confident or supported beginner...it looks like an accomplished garment without being too tricky. The only fiddly part was attaching the bias binding around the neckline...make sure you have many pins on hand!





Wearing


This is so comfortable to wear...like wearing PJs but a lot (I hope) more stylish! It also makes me feel like a land girl hence the head scarf vibes.

I cannot recommend this pattern highly enough. I don't know what took me so long to make it but now I'm reminded that sewing is not about squashing your body into garments that someone deems to be a 'typical' size and berating yourself for not being 'normal'. Instead it is about making things to fit and suit your unique and special shape. If you've struggled with jumpsuits in the past, this is a wonderful place to start.









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